Facial steaming

Is steaming destined for the forbidden-fruit column of life, the feels-good/bad-for-you realm of thick steaks and dark suntans? When's steaming ok, when not?

Lying back with your face beneath clouds of sleep-inducing steam is a central part of a traditional facial. Steaming's advocates --- principally esthethicians, not dermatologists --- claim that it's an efficient, deep cleansing that prepares skin for extracting blackheads, and for the cleansing and moisturizing masks that may follow. M.D.'s, however, line up opposite facialists in a kind of steaming controversy, saying that suffocating skin with steam is harsh, potentially irritating and can provoke oily skin to produce more oil. (They also argue against most facialists' method of extracting blackheads using two fingers and a tissue, preferring a sterilized extractor.)

Many women like steaming, saying it feels benign and relaxing. They believe in its effectiveness at cleansing because perspiration is flowing and pores feel flushed. At-home steaming is popular, too, as a way to open pores before a mask.

While dermatologists will probably never condone steaming, there is a middle ground between their condemnation and facialists' enthusiasm: moderation.

First, a caution. Even moderate steaming isn't for certain skins: 1) Extremely oily skin, which is likely to become more so after steaming, leading to breakouts --- exactly what you want a facial to prevent. (Dermatologists say that oily skin responds to the drying effects of steaming by producing more oil.) 2) Acne-prone skin, for the same reasons as above. 3) Skin with a special condition like rosacea or eczema.

If none of these conditions applies to you, then steam away ---- lightly. Tell your facialist you want five minutes' steam, max, three if your skin is dry, citing dermatologists' recommendations against it. That's enough steam to open pores for a mask without risking irritation; the right cleansing mask for your skin type can do the deep-cleaning. Follow the same timing guidelines if you steam at home.

If your facialist tries to change your mind about this, think about switching. Ask prospective ones their views on steaming to find out if they can adapt to your demands.